In Conversation with Asata Maise
In 2023, I had the privilege of interviewing Asata Maise, a talented fashion designer located in Wilmington, Delaware. I first came across her creations while browsing the Craft Now website and was immediately captivated by her stunning patchwork purses and handbags. Each piece is meticulously crafted with bold prints, vibrant colors, and designs made from sustainable fabrics. I was not only enamored with the clothing and accessories, but the brand's aesthetics felt like true art—something worthy of a museum display. Indeed, Asata Maise's work has been showcased at the Winterthur Museum. After admiring her artistry from a distance for quite some time, I finally took the initiative to reach out to Maise and discuss her creative process and sources of inspiration. After overcoming several challenges, busy schedules, and even taking a break, I decided to relaunch the blog, and I wanted this interview to be the first feature for readers. Be sure to check out the full conversation with Asata Maise below.
Photos by Renee Friedrich of HÉLÈNE Agency
Keyonna Butler: My first question is, how would you describe your work as a fashion designer? There are many facets to being a fashion designer these days. So, how would you characterize yourself as a designer?
Asata Maise: For me, it's a very personal experience. It’s like an undoing of myself, like getting deeper within myself. So in that way, the best way I could describe it is that I'm growing with my craft. It’s more than just for aesthetics or the purpose of profit. It’s like how I'm growing within myself through a medium that I've improved at. I think that's like any artist who's probably done something for a long time will say the same thing. I believe my experience mirrors this sentiment. Many designers maintain a consistent brand identity, allowing you to easily understand their style. However, my journey has been quite different. If you look back at my work from 2016 or 2017, you'll notice it differs significantly from what I create today. While the overarching theme remains, my core appreciation for nostalgia drives me. I enjoy reflecting on the past and exploring innovative ways to advance.
KB: That's fascinating! I can see how, after sewing for as long as you have, it intertwines with your identity. Artwork often reflects where someone is in their life at a given moment. I believe that fashion design is a true form of art. I was reading a book that explored the essence of art, explaining it as a visual representation or communication of concepts that are sometimes difficult to express verbally but can be seen. You might notice that someone experiencing anxiety may struggle to express it verbally. However, their emotions can often be reflected in their artwork or through signs of distress in their clothing. I find it fascinating how, as a designer, you incorporate a piece of yourself and your style into every collection you create.
Asata Maise: Absolutely, I completely relate to that. Growing up, I struggled significantly with articulating my thoughts verbally. I could hardly speak when I was younger. Over the past two years, however, I’ve been compelled to communicate more through interviews, public speaking, and attending various events. Despite this, I still found it challenging to express myself with words. As a child, I loved to paint, and then I ventured into baking and culinary arts. Eventually, I discovered sewing, and it felt like a breakthrough; I realized I could express myself through the clothes I created.
KB: That's interesting! This leads me to my next question: while growing up, did you always envision yourself as a designer? As you mentioned, you were passionate about painting, baking, and similar activities. When you began learning to sew, did you immediately think, "I want to be a designer," or were you still exploring and figuring things out as you went along?
“I’ve become more focused and intentional in my actions. I often mention that my work is driven by intention, but recently it's been distinctly hyper-focused. “
Asata Maise
AM: It was almost instantaneous. As a child, I have a vivid memory of always wanting to be an artist. I probably made that decision when I was around three or four years old—no joke! While other kids, especially since I was born in '93, would say they wanted to be firefighters, teachers, or doctors—those typical, essential roles in society—I confidently declared my dream of becoming an artist. I’ve always had a passion for creating beautiful things. My mom often recounts a story that illustrates this love of art from my childhood.
Overall, this story reflects who I was at the time. I remember being in kindergarten and having an assignment where we needed to draw birds for a math project. I told my mom, "I need you to draw this bird for me," but unfortunately, drawing wasn't her strong suit. She created a rather awkward rendition, and I quickly grabbed the paper, exclaiming, "No, that's not how you draw a bird!" laughs. I took the initiative to do it myself. I have always been quite critical and particular about aesthetics. I was aware of this, but when I started sewing, I realized, "This is what I want to do." It felt right because sewing, especially the type I practice, allows me to maintain a high level of precision.
KB: When you decided to become a designer, did you pursue formal education for it? Was it a clear goal for you? I always aspired to be a fashion designer, so I sought out a mentor and secured an internship at around 15 or 16 years old. I was already planning to move to New York to attend a school like FIT or Parsons. Was your journey similar? Did you have a concrete plan in place, or was it more about knowing you wanted to design while participating in fashion shows and exploring your creative path?
AM: Wow! I feel like, especially lately, after turning 29, something just clicked for me on my birthday. I won't lie, as I sat in bed that night, I experienced a shift within myself. Since then, I’ve become more focused and intentional in my actions. I often mention that my work is driven by intention, but recently it's been distinctly hyper-focused. I don’t believe I had that level of clarity when I was younger; back then, I was rather vague about what I truly wanted to achieve. At that time, I thought to myself, “Yes, I want to become a designer.” When I was 16, I often dreamed of being like Chanel, imagining having a grand house similar to theirs. I didn’t quite grasp what it truly takes to reach that level of success. At that time, I was quite impressionable and influenced by what the adults around me were saying. It felt like the path was clear: go to college, gain knowledge, land a job, and perhaps one day establish my brand online. I went along with this idea even though it didn’t quite resonate with me.
Eventually, I got accepted into the school I truly wanted to attend, which was the Savannah College of Art and Design (SCAD). However, my mom expressed concerns about its distance and expense, worrying about what might happen if things didn’t work out. I allowed her worries to sway me, and I ended up choosing a different school, one that didn’t meet my expectations for either the institution or the program. The program turned out to be unchallenging, so I decided to leave after just one semester. I had no clear plan for my future and moved back home, where I started working, but I was miserable. At just 18, I felt disillusioned; this was not how I envisioned my life unfolding. Desperate for change, I moved to Los Angeles, even though I still didn’t have a solid plan. Coming from a small town, I felt a strong urge to escape the lack of opportunities. While I liked New York, it never felt like the right fit for me. I had visited California before and felt a genuine attraction to it. So, at 18, I made the leap to LA, and that’s when things began to turn around for me.
Photos by Renee Friedrich of HÉLÈNE Agency
KB: At times, I admit, I fall into this myself. As designers, particularly those who are just starting, it’s easy to compare oneself to others who seem to be advancing quickly in their careers. They might see peers featured in Vogue or other well-known publications and wonder, “I've been at this for years—when is my moment?” However, it’s crucial to remember that you never truly know what someone has faced behind the scenes. You can’t see the struggles they endured or how long it took them to reach that level of success. You also can’t know their insecurities regarding their work and achievements.
AM: No, it’s not an overnight success! laughs, it’s not a cakewalk or a stroll in the park, despite what some may think. Because I have a polished approach and like things to have a certain aesthetic, it might appear as though I was just sewing, and suddenly everything took off for me. I want to share more of my journey, which is why I enjoy doing interviews. I want to clarify that I just figured out what I was doing yesterday.
KB: So, moving on to the next question: what inspired you to pursue sustainable fashion? You could have easily opted for a conventional mainstream brand, especially after collaborating with various fashion labels and PR firms. However, you chose the path of sustainable fashion. What was your motivation behind this decision?
AM: There was a pivotal moment in my life when I turned 20, towards the end of 2015. I attended Art Basel and met a friend who would inspire me for years to come. They encouraged me to put myself out there again and start working, as I had been quite low-key at that time. I hadn’t sewn anything in a while; I had taken nearly the entire year of 2015 off due to personal upheaval and constant moving. While I was down there, this friend told me, “Your work is good! You need to get back on Instagram. Why aren’t you using it? Start creating again.” I shared my thoughts on what I wanted to do, and they gave me the push I needed, as my self-esteem and confidence were lacking.
So, when I returned home in January 2016, I began watching old movies and reigniting my passion for creativity. I was still active on Tumblr, where I had taken breaks but always returned. Many think Tumblr is dead, but anyone who uses it knows it’s still vibrant and full of inspiration! I found myself drawn to the aesthetics of the 1950s; I was watching Mad Men and was captivated by the incredible set and costume design.
Having lived in Los Angeles, my lifestyle had shifted—I became more interested in natural materials and the idea of repurposing. Sustainability had woven itself into my life there, and now I was ready to dive back into creating.
KB: Absolutely! I totally get that. I think many people experience this, including myself. My sustainability journey has been a work in progress; I often refer to myself as “imperfectly sustainable.” While there are still some practices I engage in that may not be the most eco-friendly, I am always learning and striving to improve.
For me, my passion for vintage fashion aligns closely with this journey. As a child, I aspired to be a costume designer, so I spent countless hours watching classic films on Turner Classic Movies and other oldies from the '80s. Thrifting became my favorite pastime! Just like you, I wanted to stand out from the crowd and avoid the same fast fashion choices everyone else was making. I would often visit Goodwill, where it felt like it was just me and a bunch of lovely older ladies.
AM: I can relate to your experience. Growing up, I often had to shop at Goodwill because buying new items just wasn’t in the budget. I vividly remember getting my first job at 14; I was so excited to finally spend my own money. However, by the end of the summer, I realized I had barely any left. After working all summer, I found that I could only afford one pair of shoes, one pair of pants, and a few shirts with the $300 I earned.
That realization hit me hard, making me turn to thrifting since I didn’t want to go to school wearing the same three shirts. My mom encouraged me too; she believed I should be responsible as a teenager and earn my keep. This motivated me to start sewing, and I discovered I could create my own clothes.
As for discouragement, it was interesting to see others doing things I aspired to while I was still figuring things out.
KB: In my research, I noticed that you draw inspiration from history, as you've mentioned yourself. How significant is this influence in your creative process? Do you utilize sources like museums or libraries for your research? Additionally, do you listen to various podcasts before beginning a new collection?
AM: When it comes to my research and how I embark on new projects, the process is quite organic for me. Typically, I am drawn to the visuals around me; I have a deep appreciation for beauty and a sensuous, decadent nature. I often find myself saying, “Ooh, yes!” when I encounter something appealing—whether it’s how it looks, feels, smells, or tastes. As a true Taurus, this appreciation is part of my essence.
Inspiration strikes when I watch an old film or visit a museum, both of which I adore. Museums offer a calming atmosphere and a refreshing escape from home, serving as a fantastic source of inspiration. My love for travel also plays a significant role; I often find myself inspired by traditional garments, local art, or the vibrant colors of the places I visit. For instance, my first collection was influenced by Greece, where I was captivated by the soft, pale colors. Such experiences ignite a spark within me, prompting further exploration and research as I dive deeper into the project I’m currently working on.
KB: Returning to the topic of sustainability, it's evident that Black and POC communities are often underrepresented in the sustainable fashion industry. This lack of representation is noticeable in panels, articles, and similar platforms. How significant do you believe it is to include the Black community in discussions around sustainability? Do you feel that outreach to Black designers in the sustainability space is lacking?
AM: When you mentioned that, I couldn't help but think it's whitewashed and gentrified. It reminds me of a conversation I had about a year ago with Vice and another Black DIY enthusiast, who focuses more on tutorials related to clothing. We both reflected on how many of us grew up with sustainability ingrained in us; it was essential to our upbringing. For instance, we learned to turn off the lights when leaving a room, avoid wasting anything, and make the most of what we had. We mended our clothes and took care of them because they were all we had.
Not being included in discussions around sustainability feels like a slap in the face — it comes across as Black erasure and the erasure of people of color. Often, it’s individuals like us, the Black community, and people of color, who have the solutions because we live this reality daily. For many white individuals, this concept of sustainability is relatively new. Honestly, it feels almost like a mockery. Just two weeks ago, I was on a panel about sustainability, and I was the only Black person present. It’s quite amusing because I recently spoke with my friend, who is currently studying at FIT. She shared her frustrations regarding her class and the professor's approach to sustainability. She expressed that they don't focus on being solution-oriented, which she sees as a significant issue. For instance, when I began using my scraps for a project, I realized I needed to devise a practical solution to make the most of those leftovers. I believe if more individuals adopted a solution-oriented and action-driven mindset and collaborated, the fashion industry—and various other sectors—would become far more effective and efficient.
KB: We’ve touched on your process for creating your handmade pieces, but do you follow a specific creative routine? Do you prefer to sketch your ideas, or do you get inspired by fabrics and visualize the design in your mind? Regarding your upcycling work, like with denim, do you have a consistent approach where you gather the fabric, sketch it out, and then create? Or does your method vary depending on the piece?
AM: It depends on the project at hand. Let me share insights from my two most recent ventures. The first involved denim and was a delightful experience initiated by Marie Claire. Julia Gall, an editor who has since moved on to freelance, was the driving force behind this sustainability initiative. She was a passionate advocate for sustainability and relevant narratives within Marie Claire, and I truly admired her dedication. Julia was one of those genuine editors who sincerely cared about fashion and the evolving industry. For this project, they sent a box of denim weighing ten pounds to about five or six designers, including me. The directive was simple: “Go wild, do whatever you like!”. In such situations, I prefer to let creativity flow organically and naturally, allowing myself to see where it leads.
Lately, I’ve been working on a personal project inspired by Issey Miyake—I made a suit for myself that felt super intentional and personal. While building out my wardrobe, I kept thinking about this vintage Issey Miyake pattern from the ’90s that I’d always wanted to find. I was drawn to the shape of the suit and started thinking about how I could recreate that silhouette and what color I wanted. I landed on a deep chocolate brown—it’s my current favorite. I found this gorgeous silk fabric and tracked down some perfect buttons to go with it. Then I started thinking about how I wanted to style the whole look, down to my hairstyle and earrings. I picked a hairstyle I loved and chose earrings that pulled everything together. On top of that, I made a red leather bag using a piece of repurposed leather I bought from someone in New York—it had a hole in it and was in the discount bin, but I saw the potential. I poured a lot of thought into every part of this project. I feel like I have two creative sides, and each one feeds a different part of me. This project was so fun because it gave me the freedom to be creative, but it also reminded me that I can be super focused and detail-oriented when I want to be.
Photos by Renee Friedrich of HÉLÈNE Agency
KB: The final question: Do you have any goals or dream collaborations? Who would you love to work with?
AM: Right now? Let’s see. I’m thinking about who inspires me with their style, someone I’d love to see in my clothes, or collaborate with. I believe it’s Cassi Namoda, a talented painter whose mother is from Mozambique. Her style resonates with me, much like Ashley Drapes. I adore how she often showcases her natural hair; she always looks like a little princess! I would love to create something for her. Cassi has influenced my style and how I want to express myself through fashion. Lately, I’ve shifted my focus from celebrities like Rihanna, whom I still admire, to individuals who genuinely move me with their creativity, sense of style, and the messages they convey.
While I don't want to downplay Rihanna’s incredible impact—everyone was captivated by the news of her baby, right?—I feel that lesser-known individuals are doing remarkable things, who can be just as influential. Building personal relationships with people like Cassi and Ashley Drapes inspires me and motivates me to envision my unique style. One day, I hope to embody that vibe!
KB: That's awesome! You should put yourself out there. You never know what might happen. I've reached out to people thinking, “This probably won't go anywhere,” and then they respond, leaving me pleasantly surprised. It's a reminder that you never really know what could come from taking that chance!
Thank you so much for taking the time to interview with me. I truly appreciate it.
You can follow Asata Maise's work via her social media @asata.maise and on her website at https://asatamaise.com/
